Today galvanized wire lath, chicken wire or the like is used over foam insulation but these metals all rust, save stainless lath and plastic lath. By doing this you will have a good start for a second coat especially when you create a rough surface texture to this inner backer material and create a good “mechanical bonding” surface. not containing any latex or Portland cement which err’s toward an impervious surface and inhibits natural keying-in (chemically) through suction). You use fibrous daubing, whether the fibrous binder is straw or hair, and due to the suction of the natural material, (i.e. Some use more organic sheep’s wool, hemp-lime mixtures w/gallets as a backer. Today the backer used is often insulation such as rigid foam and placed as the back-up. Don’t forget to fill large voids with cherry-cock noggin stones or brick to gallet the void with solid material. Historically mix ratios like- 1/3 clay/1/3 coarse sand/1/3 lime with enough straw to make a heavy-strawed daubing filler. ![]() First coat: Pack the crack with some backer material. ![]() Modern caulks may do the same to historic window frames. Outside, the linseed oil mix we suggest breathes and plastics would tend to keep water in the wood possibly accelerating their rot. Plastics may work but many owners wanting to go green don’t want that between their logs in living spaces. If you have a “chink” in the armor of a building it is usually due to different or moving materials coming together and the need for a filler that accommodates the differential in movement between the two masses.
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